The team

Two of us at the front, six on a Friday.

Glenys and Ray Price opened the shop in 1987 with a second-hand range and a lease the bank thought was brave; their son Dai has been at the range since he was fifteen; Lowri came for a summer in 2006 and runs the front; and on a Friday night there are six of us between the range, the window and the café.

The people

Dai Price, a cheerful Welsh man in his late forties with short dark hair greying at the sides, in a white tunic and navy apron in front of a stainless steel frying range

Dai Price

Owner and frier. The range, the fish, the van, the curry sauce

Son of Glenys and Ray Price, who opened the shop in 1987; at the range since he was fifteen, the owner since 2009. Buys the fish from the four boats, chooses the potatoes every autumn on the Pembrokeshire farm, drives the van to the weddings and invented the curry sauce in 1989 with a recipe he will not write down. Fries most evenings and will tell you when the haddock is better than the cod.

Lowri Evans, a woman in her late thirties with curly auburn hair tied up and freckles, in a mustard t-shirt and navy apron, holding two plates of fish and chips at a café counter

Lowri Evans

The café and the counter. The slots, the deals, the allergens, Tuesday

Came for a summer job in 2006 and runs the front of the shop now: the café, the window, the slot bookings, the family deals and the allergens sheet, which she rewrites every time a recipe changes. Started gluten-free Tuesday with Dai in 2014 and fries it herself; knows half of Penarth by their usual order.

  • 39years on the Esplanade, the same family at the range
  • 4named boats our fish comes from, all MSC-certified
  • 14allergens listed for every item on the menu
  • 4.8average rating

The rest of us, and the paperwork

Friday night, the van, and four things worth knowing.

Friday night

Dai and a second frier on the range, Lowri and two students on the window and the café, Glenys on the till at seventy-four because she will not stop. About four hundred portions between half four and nine.

The van

A horsebox converted in 2016 with a two-pan range, its own gas and a hatch. It does about forty weddings and parties a year, mostly in summer, with Dai frying and whoever is free on the cones.

The paperwork

Food hygiene rated five since the scheme began; MSC chain-of-custody certified; members of the National Federation of Fish Friers; the allergen sheets reviewed every time a recipe or a supplier changes.

Where the money goes

Fish is a third of the price of a portion and the rest is potatoes, dripping, gas, wages and the rent on a seafront. MSC fish costs about 40p a portion more; we put it in the price and say so.

A navy blue fish and chip shop front with a mustard awning on the Penarth seafront at dusk, people queuing, the pier beyond

Number three

A tearoom for the pier, then fish and chips since 1987.

Number three was a tearoom for the people coming off the pier steamers, then a souvenir shop, then empty, when Glenys and Ray Price took it in 1987 with a second-hand range from a shop in Barry. The navy front and the mustard awning are Glenys's choice and have been repainted the same colours every five years since. The range has been replaced twice; the queue has not changed.

Finding the shop

Book a slot, skip the queue.

Pick a collection time from the slots still open, every fifteen minutes through each shift, say what you would like, and it is fried to the slot and waiting in a bag with your name on it at the end of the counter.