Bespoke

The hour, the drawing, the wax, the metal.

A commission is four steps and you see every one of them. Nothing is owed until you have seen a drawing; the deposit is paid at the wax; the piece is shown to you in metal before any stone goes in. Below: the four steps, six pieces we made this year with what they cost, and wedding bands side by side.

A bespoke ring design in progress on an ivory desk: a pencil sketch of a ring on cream paper, a green carved wax ring model, a small sapphire in a stone paper, dividers and a steel ruler

The four steps

  1. The hour at the table

    Who it is for, how they live, the stones you have, the metal, the budget, and your hands on the table so we can see them. Elin sketches while you talk. £60, which comes off the price, and refunded if we say the idea will not work.

  2. The drawing

    A scaled drawing by email within a week, with the price in writing and the stones listed. Usually two more drawings before everyone is happy. Nothing is owed yet.

  3. The wax

    A model carved or printed at the exact size, tried on at the table. Half of our clients change the width or the height here, and that is what it is for. The deposit, a quarter of the price, is paid now.

  4. The metal and the stone

    Cast and finished upstairs, hallmarked at Birmingham, and shown to you in metal before any stone is set. The stone goes in while you watch if you want. Six to eight weeks from the first hour; four for a plain band.

This year

Six pieces, and what each cost.

All six owners said we could show them. Prices as invoiced, including the hallmark and VAT; stones the client brought are not in the figure.

A pencil sketch of a ring beside a carved green wax model and a small sapphire in a stone paperEngagement ring

A sapphire trilogy in platinum

An engagement, Pontcanna

A Ceylon sapphire he had bought on a trip with two of her grandmother's diamonds either side, drawn three times until the shoulders were right. Platinum, 2.2mm, with a low setting because she is a vet. £3,150 with her stones.

A tray of gold and platinum rings in a blue velvet trayRemodel

Three rings made into one

A daughter, Llandaff

Her mother's engagement ring, eternity ring and a thin band she never took off, into one eighteen-carat ring with the nine small diamonds set in a scattered line. The gold refined and set against the price. £1,180.

A gold ring on a steel ring mandrel with a brass ring sizer and a rawhide mallet on a benchSignet ring

A signet with a hand-cut crest

A fortieth birthday, Penarth

A heavy oval signet in nine-carat yellow gold, the family crest cut by hand in reverse so it seals, and a date inside. Made in five weeks for a party. £920 including the engraving.

A jeweller soldering a gold ring on a charcoal block with a small torchWedding band

A 7mm flat band that nobody sells

A groom, Canton

He wanted a wide flat band with a brushed finish and a polished edge, and had been told four times it was not in the range. Nine-carat white gold, 7mm, made in four weeks. £460.

A cabinet of antique jewellery including a string of pearls and a pocket watch on ivory velvetPendant

A pendant from a broken strand

A sixtieth birthday, Roath

The best eleven pearls from a strand that had broken too often to re-thread, in a nine-carat cluster pendant on a new chain, with the rest returned in a box. £540.

A goldsmith's hands holding a ring in tweezers under a bench magnifier at a wooden benchEarrings

Garnet drops from a brooch

A Christmas present, Cathays

Two matched garnets from a Victorian brooch nobody wore, re-set as drop earrings in rose gold, the brooch frame kept for a future piece. £410.

Wedding bands

Nine-carat, eighteen-carat, platinum, side by side.

Made upstairs in the profile you choose. Court is rounded inside and out; D-shape is flat inside; flat is flat; flat-court is flat outside and rounded inside, the most comfortable wide band. Including VAT.

Wedding band prices by metal
BandNine-caratEighteen-caratPlatinum
2mm court£240£390£560
3mm court or D-shape£270£450£650
4mm court, D-shape or flat£310£520£740
5mm flat or flat-court£350£600£860
6mm flat or flat-court£390£680£980
8mm flat£420£720£1,050
Shaped to sit against an engagement ring+£40+£60+£80
Brushed, hammered or two-tone finish+£25+£25+£35
Engraving inside, to 20 characters£30£30£30
Time to make, including the hallmark4 weeks4 weeks5 weeks

At the table

Your hands on the table, and nothing decided in the first ten minutes.

The design hour is slow on purpose. Who the piece is for and how they live comes before any talk of stones or metal, because a nurse's ring is not a pianist's and a ring for someone who gardens needs a low setting and a shank that can be resized. Elin sketches while you talk; by the end of the hour there are usually three or four pencil ideas and one you keep coming back to. That one becomes the drawing. The £60 comes off the commission, and is refunded if we tell you the idea will not work in metal, which happens about once a month.

A woman in her thirties at a small jewellers consultation table trying on a ring with a jeweller opposite, a tray of ring blanks and a sketchbook between them

Questions about commissions

What does a bespoke ring cost?

From £650 in nine-carat, £950 in eighteen-carat and £1,400 in platinum, including the design hour, the drawings, the wax, the making and the hallmark. Stones are on top at cost plus setting, and we show you the invoice for the stone. The six pieces above ran from £410 to £3,150.

Can I use my own gold?

Yes, with a caveat we explain at the table: old gold is refined and its value set against the price rather than melted straight into the new piece, because old solder makes a porous casting that cracks. You lose nothing in value and gain a ring that lasts.

How many drawings do I get?

As many as it takes within reason; the usual is three. The first arrives within a week of the hour, by email, scaled and with the price in writing, and nothing is owed until you say yes to one.

What if I do not like it at the wax?

Then it changes, which is what the wax is for: half of our clients alter the width or the height of the setting at that stage. If you want to stop altogether at the wax, the design hour is all you have paid and it stays paid.

Book the design hour. £60, an hour at the table, and it comes off the price.

Tuesday to Saturday, with Thursday evenings until seven by arrangement. Bring pictures you like, the stones if you have them, and the hand the ring is for if that is practical. The form takes two minutes and we reply within the working day with a time.